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Costa Rica get around to Tortuguero National
Park
How to get to Tortuguero National
Park by a rental car
or bus service.
The following is a summary of the
options available to the independent traveller who wants to find his/her own
way to Tortuguero village. These are not all of the ways and means to travel
to Tortuguero National Park but are the ones that are generally considered
free of package-oriented or commission-paying options.
Privately run companies provide practically all transport in Costa Rica. In
the case of Tortuguero only the buses and planes provide a public service with
prices regulated by the government. Since there are no roads to Tortuguero,
most visitors arrive in expensive, all-inclusive packages that are very
lucrative to the travel agencies who sell them. As a result, information about
independent travel has unfortunately remained somewhat of a mystery and has
been erroneously referred to as expensive and even dangerous. You will see
below that travel can actually be rather inexpensive and as long as one is
responsible and respectful while remembering that they are travelling in a
country which is probably less developed than their own, can be interesting,
safe and adventurous.
This information contains some caveats based on a large amount of feedback
received by the center over the years. It is updated constantly due to the
inevitable changes and improvements to the infrastructure of this developing
country. Many travellers have commented that they would have benefited from
having known more about their options before coming to Tortuguero.
For those looking for TOURS while in Tortuguero, these can be arranged by
asking around in the village (don't be surprised if someone not-so-innocently
tells you that a recommended guide is not available). Be persistent. There are
several excellent local guides who speak English or even German and French.
Some of the restaurants work on a commission basis so if you want to find a
recommended guide ask in one of the souvenir shops or at the Tortuguero
Information Center.
Basically there are five ways an independent traveller can get to Tortuguero.
Here they are in no particular order:
1. By air:
Sansa (506) 221-9414, fax 255-2176 flysansa.com or info@flysansa.com
Nature Air (506) 220-3054, fax 296-2316 natureair.com
Note: Only Sansa offers a boat ride (US $3 pp.) to Tortuguero village (2 miles
down the beach). Victor Barrantes, a bilingual local guide, is the Sansa
representative in the village (709-8055). He can be found at the airport upon
arrival of both Sansa and Nature Air flights if you need a ride to the
village.
Both airlines fly in and out of Tortuguero once per day early in the morning.
The one-way fare was recently $65 and $70 per person respectively. The rate
depends on season. Please check the web sites for current prices.
2. By Lodge/private transport bus/boat (only when space available):
Call one of the Tortuguero lodge or tour operators of your choice at 5:00 p.m.
the night before you travel to Tortuguero. If there is space available you may
be picked up at one of the San Jose hotels on their route the next morning
between 6-7:00 a.m. Tell them you only need a ride to Tortuguero village.
Price ranges from US $45-$100 or more per person one-way including breakfast.
This is not reliable unless buying a complete package as space is often
unavailable. They try to send the smallest bus/boat to accommodate their
full-package clients.
Fran and Modesto Watson offer complete packages via Moin but may provide
transport only when they have space available. Call them at (506) 226-0986 or
by email fvwatson@racsa.co.cr
3. Via Limon/Moin:
a) By bus:
Take the 6:30 a.m. bus to Limon from the Gran Caribe bus terminal (221-2596)
in San Jose (no later or you may miss the boat connection in Moin). Buy the
ticket one day in advance during the high season or you may not find room on
this bus!. Take a taxi (US $4 for 10 km) to the JAPDEVA boat docks in Moin for
the Tortuguero canals. A bus is available to Moin but the taxi is cheap and
fast.
The boat owners in Moin recently formed a co-operative and there is a loose
rotation organised to give all the captains a chance to take people to
Tortuguero. You will have to negotiate a price. There is bargaining power in
groups so try to pair up with someone before arriving at the docks. Prices may
run from $50-$70 per person and a chartered boat may cost US $200 or more
return. These are water taxis and don't have a fixed daily service. Make sure
your boat has all the necessary safety equipment required by Costa Rican law:
lifejackets for each passenger, paddle, bailer, fire extinguisher.
Alexis Soto and Sebastien Torres (beeper 900-296-2626) are partners in a
reliable (virtually daily) boat service to and from Tortuguero. They only
speak Spanish but their captains speak some English and have well-trained eyes
to find animals along the way. They travel on most days and provide a covered
boat and ponchos. You can reserve beforehand by calling them directly or (if
you are uncomfortable speaking Spanish) by contacting the Tortuguero
Information Center. Cost: about US $50 return or $30 one-way per person in a
shared boat if you arrive on time for boat departure (10:00 a.m.). They will
wait until 10:30 if they are expecting you after which time they will have to
leave. Arrival in Tortuguero is around 2:00 PM. They are one of the most
reliable operators and the most fair with putting travellers in touch with
previously recommended guides in the village. Some of the other independent
boat captains from Moin work only with specific guides in the village on a
commission basis who may not speak English or may tell you that the guide you
have been recommended no longer lives there or that they don't know them.
Insist if you have someone's name. If you have no luck come to the information
center in front of the catholic church in Tortuguero village and you will be
put in touch with the guide you seek (or have suggested to you a good one that
suits the tour, language and budget desired).
The return trip to Moin departs from Tortuguero at around 10:00 am.
This
allows you time for a second morning tour of the rivers (if staying in Tortuguero two nights and in case the first morning is rained out), and time
for breakfast before leaving. You should be back in Moin before 1:00 p.m. This
will give you plenty of time to get back to San Jose or down to the southern
Caribbean coast during daylight hours.
Note: If you are planning on travelling only one-way along the inland waterway
between Tortuguero and Moin it is more interesting to go to Tortuguero via
Moin rather than the other way. This is because the boat makes more wildlife
viewing stops on the way to Tortuguero than when leaving.
b) To Moin by rental car:
Take Braulio Carrillo highway towards Limon leaving no later than 6:30 a.m. To
get to the Moin docks leave the San Jose-Limon highway a few miles before you
get to Limon. You will see the exit to Moin on the highway and on any good
map. You will exit to the left after passing a gas station on your right
(signposted). Go past the oil refinery and under the only train bridge and you
will immediately see an entrance on your left to a gravel road that leads to
the JAPDEVA docks for TORTUGUERO. This is BEFORE you get to the huge
international freight loading docks. DO NOT cross over a bridge (you will have
gone too far). Just ask around once in the area and someone will tell you how
to get there (JAPDEVA is pronounced "hap-DAY-vuh"). You will have to pass
through a security gate. Just mention the word "Tortuguero" to the guards and
they will direct you to the dock where the boats leave. The boat captains and
touts who are always there will tell you where to park the car. You'll see
from the security gate that the compound is safe with 24-hour guards. You will
need to pay the guards a couple of dollars per night spent in Tortuguero upon
your return. See above for boat information.
More detailed driving instructions are available.
4. Via rental car to the Cano Blanco Marina:
This is the route all the big lodges use to get to Tortuguero. Although there
can be many boats here, most of the captains and guides are under strict
orders not to take on any passengers that aren't part of the package tour.
It's best not to get stuck here without first having confirmed your water
transport. There are usually independent captains waiting here for people who
get stranded by the second (and last) bus to Siquirres for the day or those
who arrive here in a rental car having followed the enigmatic "Parque Nacional
Tortuguero" street signs located on the main highway. They will either offer
to take you to Tortuguero for an amount similar to the Moin boats that travel
much further or will take you to the town of Parismina a few miles south of
the southern end of the Tortuguero National Park. They can take you into the
National Park from Parismina which is pleasant enough but it is 25 miles from
Tortuguero village and is not quite as good for viewing wildlife or the Green
sea turtles during the nesting season. It is however a better location for
observing Leatherback turtles during their nesting season between March and
May.
Take the Limon highway as far as the town of Siquirres. Take the exit to the
left before the overhead bridge into the center of town. Cross the train
tracks and follow the signs to Tortuguero National Park. Drive the 37 km past
the towns of El Carmen, Maryland and keep following the most travelled road to
the marina called Cano Blanco (about one hour: this is a rough road). Before
"La Pavona" (see below), this used to be the point of land closest to
Tortuguero that could be reached by car. There is secure parking at the
marina. The local boats generally charge around US $100 for a pick up or drop
off in Tortuguero from Cano Blanco.
5. Via public bus and boat through Cariari and La Pavona.
This route requires a short introduction to eliminate some possible confusion
you might encounter on the way. One source of the confusion comes from the
fact that there is more than one transport company offering boat transport
along the Suerte river and all of them want to take you to Tortuguero and each
has their own opinion about how you should get there. The other is that La
Pavona does not yet appear on any map.
First of all the route operated by COOPETRACA via La Pavona is currently the
cheapest way to get to Tortuguero. It is the route the locals from Tortuguero
use to get out to the banks and other essential services in Cariari and
Guapiles. It is the route recognized by the municipality, national park
service and Tortuguero local government as the official public route and
receives municipal funding for its maintenance. COOPETRACA offers the bus and
boat transport between Cariari and Tortuguero for a total of 2,000 colones
(approx.$4) one-way.
As mentioned there are several boat operators offering transport to locals and
international visitors to the area along this (or slight variations of this)
route. It is in general, rustic and for those used to luxury it may even be
uncomfortable. It does not have the fast, comfortable buses used on inter city
routes or the comfortable covered boats used by the luxury lodges or on the
route from Moin. The road is rough and the bus ride at times is quite bumpy
and hot. The river is narrow and at times swollen with floodwaters or at other
times so dry that it is un-navigable (extremely rare). During the height of
the dry season people sometimes have to get out of the boat, roll up their
pant legs and push their way over sand banks. During the wet season the boat
operators provide ponchos and a large plastic sheet to cover all the baggage.
It is an adventure for all but on the whole is generally quite safe (i.e. no
white-water!).
Having said all that, La Pavona is currently the most popular route used to
get into and out of Tortuguero for both locals and independent travelers and
is also the safest and most reliable ANY service has ever been between Cariari
and Tortuguero. The boats docking in La Pavona generally have reliable,
late-model, environmentally-friendly and quiet four-stroke outboard motors.
This is important because the Suerte river passes right through part of the
Tortuguero National Park.
River transport has been up until May of 2005 a bit of a cash cow for some of
the boat operators who have charged up to $7 or $10 for foreign riders (while
charging locals traveling in the same boat about $2) but things have recently
changed and everyone buying their ticket at the office of COOPETRACA (the
transport company offering the "public" transport) pays the same.
Some of the other transport service providers who have well established,
vertically-integrated, commission-paying operations involving buses, boats,
guides, hotels and restaurants are not happy with the new
"one-price-for-everyone" service offered by COOPETRACA. You will meet up with
people hawking these services (and local tours) at all the bus stations along
the way and upon your arrival in Tortuguero. There have been many complaints
received at this office about false or misleading information provided by some
of these people about guides, tours and accommodations in Tortuguero. It is OK
to be a bit stubborn and to look for your recommended guide, lodging etc. ON
YOUR OWN. The village is very small.
At the time of writing, everyone offering transport with regular timetables
along the route between Cariari and Tortuguero by road and along the rio
Suerte has an operating license authorized by the appropriate government
ministry meaning they comply with the laws for safe transit on water. You are
of course free to accept offers from anyone providing transport other than the
public carrier but be advised that YOU WILL PAY MORE and you may find it
difficult to contact your recommended guide, lodging or restaurant in
Tortuguero. Many people have commented that they were not able to find the
cheapest public transport service or their lodgings, guide etc. for a number
of dubious or mysterious reasons.
There is nothing complicated or dangerous about traveling on your own to
Tortuguero along this route.
If you are independent and want to travel on public transport all the way to
the public dock in Tortuguero (not a dedicated terminal with a dedicated guide
or agent waiting) where you may find your own way to your lodging, guiding
service or restaurant, FOLLOW THESE DIRECTIONS. The non commission-paying,
hard-working independent guides and services in the village will appreciate
it:
Note: During a few days of the year this route may not always be transit able
especially during high rainfall or no rainfall (too little water in river). If
you want to check if the river is passable (especially if you have heard of
very stormy conditions on the Caribbean coast) call one of the transport
companies listed in your guidebook or for information in English, call the
Tortuguero Information Center (833-0827 or 709-8055).
Take the 9:00 am direct bus to Cariari (about $2. Departures at 6:30, 9:00,
10:30 a.m and 1:00, 3:00, 4:20, 6:00, 7:00 pm) from the Gran Caribe bus
terminal in San Jose. The 9:00 bus arrives at about 11:00 a.m. at the
dedicated San Jose bus terminal in Cariari. Note: Buy your ticket for this bus
at the Guapiles ticket counter. There are information desks at both the Gran
Caribe bus terminal AND at the baggage check of the arrival terminal in
Cariari run by independent travel agents that promote the higher priced
commission-earning options. Their friendly and persuasive employees for
obvious reasons give the impression that theirs is the ONLY route to
Tortuguero. THIS IS SIMPLY NOT TRUE. You are free to choose your own travel
options. They may be politely insistent.
Upon arrival in Cariari, and to go onward INDEPENDENTLY, you will need to walk
about five blocks north to the local bus terminal located behind the police
station after the Banco Nacional. Go to the back corner of the bus stop to the
COOPETRACA ticket booth where you will find bus and boat tickets for sale.
These tickets to be handed to the bus and boat driver cost 1000 colones each
(currently just over $2) and are good for one passage. There are actually two
buses at this local terminal that lead to different riverside docks (La Pavona
or La GEEST) where there are boats waiting to take you to Tortuguero. Remember
that the route to LA PAVONA is considered to be the official public route to
Tortuguero and is at the time of writing the least expensive.
Take the 12:00 noon public bus to "La Pavona". (There are departures at 6:00
AM, 12:00 noon and 3:00 PM). So far there are no signs for this bus at the
Cariari bus terminal but it often boards its passengers from directly in front
of the ticket booth or from the wall immediately behind or beside the police
station. Show the driver your ticket.
At the end of the bus ride you will reach a farm called La Pavona at around
1:30 p.m. Here you will find the boats that will take you to Tortuguero.
The public boats generally do not stop on the way to observe wildlife unless
there is something in plain view on the river. There will be other
travel-weary Ticos (Costa Ricans) on the boat who just want to get home to
their families. If you want to observe wildlife nothing beats a dedicated,
slow early morning boat tour through the water trails of the national park.
The 1:30 PM boats leaving La Pavona will take you right to Tortuguero arriving
around 3:00 PM. The boats and buses always wait for one another. There is a
return boat service that leaves at 6:00 AM, 11:30 AM and 3:00 PM. These meet
up with the buses that make the return journey from La Pavona to Cariari. The
boat leaving Tortuguero at 6:00 AM makes the most efficient outbound bus
connections. Arriving in Cariari one ought to take a local bus to Guapiles (do
not go to the San Jose direct bus station unless you want to wait there until
11:30 AM). Once in Guapiles you can take a bus to either San Jose or Limon and
be in either place around noon. This is early enough to make an early
afternoon bus connection to many other destinations in the southern Caribbean,
Monteverde or la Fortuna allowing you to arrive before dusk.
An early bus leaves Cariari at around 6:00 am for La Pavona. It meets up with
the early boat that goes to Tortuguero at 8:30 am. The bus does not always
leave from the terminal but always passes by on the street. Try to contact the
COOPETRACA office in person if you arrive too late in Cariari for the buses
and let them know you want the early morning bus. They should be able to
inform the driver to look for you in the morning. Failing that, you can flag
any bus down that passes around that time and ask if it goes to La Pavona.
There is also a late bus for La Pavona at 3:00 PM.
Important information for traveling this route during the turtle season (Mar
1-October 31):
If you are traveling on the late bus (3:00 PM) and want to do a turtle tour
that same night tell the boat captain travelling on the bus to call ahead to
reserve a tour. There might be other fellow travellers who could benefit from
this information. Let them know too. Tell the captain to try to contact your
recommended guide. If this is not arranged ahead of time you may arrive too
late for the 6:00 PM cutoff time for guides to get a tour permit for you. Try
to make the earlier buses.
By rental car via Cariari/La Pavona:
Please read the previous section for important information about this route
(like buying your boat tickets etc.).
You must get to La Pavona for the 8:30 AM, 1:30 PM or 4:30 pm boat to
Tortuguero. Here you will find secure parking for a fee. You may follow the
noon bus from Cariari which passes through the villages of Campo Dos, Cuatro
Esquinas and Palacios.
To begin driving, set your odometer to zero at the only gas station in Cariari
(200 meters past the single lane bridge coming into town). Drive straight for
7 kilometers and turn right onto the newly paved highway. Follow this road
until the pavement ends after the village of Cuatro Esquinas (approximately
14.5 km after the gas station). Follow the gravel road until you reach the
general store ("Abast Palacio") in the tiny village of Palacios (23.4 km after
the gas station). You can buy cold drinks and snacks here. 50 meters after the
general store is a road going off to the left. Follow this bumpy road for 5.7
km (29.1 km after the gas station) until you reach the farm called La Pavona.
There is safe parking here for a fee.
If you have the COOPETRACA boat tickets you can show them to the appropriate
captain waiting in La Pavona.
Approximate driving time from San Jose to Cariari: 2 hours. Approximate
driving time from Cariari to La Pavona: 1 hour. To reach the 1:30 pm boat you
will need to leave San Jose at 10:00 am at the absolute latest. This will NOT
leave time for mistakes or stops along the way if you want to have lunch etc.
If you require more detailed driving directions write to the Tortuguero
Information Center tortugueroinfo@yahoo.com
It is not recommended to drive to La GEEST. The plantation owners do not allow
taxis or rental cars into the compound without prior written consent. People
are taken by surprise when told they have to leave their car unguarded on the
road outside the main plantation gates.
OTHER IMPORTANT INFORMATION:
Remember to bring dollars or colones sufficient for transport, tours and
lodging to Tortuguero. There are no banks or ATMs here and traveller's checks
can only be changed locally with a hefty commission charge. Only the souvenir
shops will take travellers checks or Visa. Remember that the Tortuguero
National Park charges $7 per person for a one-day pass (obligatory if you want
to explore any of the waterways or trails in the area) or $10 for a pass valid
for up to three days.
There is only one authorized trail (called "El Gavilan") in the northern end
of the National Park. Be a responsible visitor and don't go to any unofficial
trail within the park. Sometimes unlicensed guides will offer to take you
there. Night tours that are not for observing nesting turtles are strictly
PROHIBITED by the national park administration
As a general rule it is recommend to stay at least two nights in Tortuguero to
take advantage of two mornings (the best time of day for animal viewing) to
have a tour in the canals with an option in the afternoon if it rains.
Don't miss your bus or boat connections. Travel wisely on buses and at
terminals. Under the bus compartments are generally safe for backpacks, hand
luggage should be carried on your lap and NOT in overhead compartments.
Bring rain gear, decent walking shoes if you plan on doing any hiking, and a
flashlight for the frequent power outages. During turtle nesting season
(July-October), flashlights and any type of camera or video camera are NOT
allowed on the beach. Dark clothing is strongly recommended.
More information in spanish:
Flora:
The most important species are el cedro macho, el gavilán, el
pilón, el javillo negro, la fruta dorada, el manu, el María, el alcanfor, el
canfin, el cativo, la palma yolillo, la palma real y la choreja o lirio de
agua.
This National Park was created in November 13, 1975 to protect its flora and
fauna of this region of Costa Rica's Caribbean as well to provide studies and
investigations for the Scientifics.
Fue creado para proteger la flora
y fauna de esta región así como para facilitar investigaciones estudios
científicos y propiciar la educación ambiental. Entre la vegetación se
encuentran helechos, la palma blanca, bosques sobre Lomas, los yolillales,
constituidos por la palma yolillo y ubicados en el sector central del parque,
pantanos formados por plantas herbáceas de hasta 2 metros de altura y
comunidades de hierbas sobre lagunas con vegetación flotante como la choreja o
lirio de agua.
Sus bosques poseen la misma
complejidad estructural y diversidad de los bosques amazónicos y representan la
mayor extensión de bosques humedos en él pacifico centroamericano.
Fauna:
El parque es atravesado por uno sistema natural de lagunas y canales
navegables de gran belleza escénica y son el hábitat de especies de tortugas
terrestres del manatí o vaca marina, del cocodrilo de gran diversidad de
crustáceos y de unas 85 especies de peces de agua dulce incluyendo el pez gaspar.
Los mamíferos que lo habitan son
la danta, el jaguar, el manigordo, el saíno, el mono, el perezoso, murciélago
pescador que es uno de los mas grandes del país.
Algunas de las aves protegidas son
la lapa verde especie en peligro de extinción,el pavón,el zopilote cabecirrojo,
el gavilán cangrejero y el trogon violáceo.
Además de la tortuga baula la
carey ya la tortuga verde la tortuga jicotea negra es muy común en los canales
desde Mohín hasta TORTUGUERO. Es una de las zonas más lluviosas del país con
aguaceros de corta duración y los característicos temporales del caribe.
Clima:
Tortuguero es una de las zonas más lluviosas del país entre 999 y 1000 mm al año.
Aguaceros locales de corta duración que son los más frecuentes y los
característicos temporales del caribe que se prolongan hasta 49 días, estos
últimos son causados por los vientos alisios del norte y noroeste.
Tortuguero es el área más importante de toda la mitad occidental del Caribe para
el desove de la tortuga verde. Otras especies de tortugas marinas que también
desovan en la playa son la tortuga baula y la carey.
Es considerada todo un laboratorio
viviente donde se estudia la estructura y el funcionamiento de los ecosistemas
tropicales. Los bosques húmedos de corcovado fuguen entre los últimos que
mantienen aún ecosistemas del bosque muy húmedo tropical, inalterados en el
pacífico americano, con lluvias que superan los 5000 mm anuales.
|
Area
Sector
|
Visits Schedule
Horario de visitas
|
Trails
Senderos
|
| Sector Aguas Frías |
8:00 - 16:00
|
- Natural Los Raudales
|
| Sector Jalova |
8:00 - 16:00
|
- Sendero Natural El Tucán
|
| Sector Cuatro Esquinas |
8:00 - 16:00
|
- Natural La Ceiba
- Natural El Gavilán
- Natural La Bomba
|
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